Copacabana may be the last place you would expect to find a good goulash or borscht, an icey nip of vodka and a chocolate soufflé, but these Eastern European classics are well handled at Polonesa. The unremarkable interior makes it all the more amazing that it attracts carioca celebrities, as does the somewhat blunt service that simply adds to the place's charm. Fortunately the portions are big enough that the waiter won't have to make too many return visits to your table.