Yet another in a long line of Rio institutions that do little to preserve their strong reputation and in doing so merely build upon it even more, almost all you need to know about Nova Capela is that it dates back to 1903. A close second is the famous house dish cabrito assado (roasted kid) served up by a late-running kitchen that fuels Lapa's crowds into the early hours to make up for the uninspired decor and surly service.

This is not the place to order a salad, but a healthier option comes in the form of trout with broccoli rice, while the fried cod balls are the perfect accompaniment to the exemplary chopp. Part of the firmament of this 300-year-old neighbourhood, having survived the time when even the savviest Cariocas would avoid the local streets, Capela is now partaking of the boom that sees the young and hip rub shoulders with the bohemian and gnarled.