Café culture might be surprisingly under-represented in the artsy Santa Teresa, but its epicentre is an attractive terrace close to the ever-buzzing Largo do Guimarães, going by the name Cafecito. The iron-clad staircases and tables are scattered across the space, long wooden benches buttressing up against the stone walls, themselves adorned with copper pots, leaving customers to simply choose the spot that suits their mood and wrestle with the comprehensive menu.

The Miguelito sandwich is laden with dry-cured ham, gruyere cheese and rocket, served up warm and with the Argentine-owner's signature chimichurri salsa, but other enticing options abound, from smoked trout to the blue cheese with chilli jam. Away from the sarnies, baked mushrooms with gorgonzola butter and broinha are big and juicy, or stop in for a smoothie or, as the afternoon wears on, one of the pricey but robust Colorado beers.

If you still have time afterwards and the rest of the hill isn't calling you, make a beeline for the shop alongside, filled with more of the same rustic furniture and household goodies as well as some artisanal products and wines.