From its beautifully restored headquarters in Lapa, Mercado Moderno sells some of the most collectable furniture from the '50s to the '80s both from Brazilian and international designers. Ederaldo is the informed and amiable owner, swift to enthuse about the grande mestres of design, from Zanine Caldas (and now his son Zanini de Zanine) to Joaquim Tenreiro and Poland's Zalszupin.

Only the very serious need apply since the prices range from expensive to astronomical, but a browse will get you dreaming of redesigning your home and offer a little history lesson in Brazilian style in the process. A Sérgio Rodrigues chez longue (R$6,500) purrs in the corner, and a white Zalszupin bench complete with fluffy purple magazine rack (R$8,500) has Moonraker style written all over it. The retro tellys are a nice curio rather than for sale (merely for show and photoshoots) but the loveable little wooden coffee grinders (R$500) certainly are.