First things first, this is nowhere to while away the hours mulling over the gloriousness of Rio in full bloom. In fact, Condor shopping gallery is probably one of the least aesthetically pleasing of its kind in the city, full of identikit shopfronts and mechanical children's toys. Smack dab in the middle of the ground floor, however, the Sirio Libanesa emits a perma-buzz as locals and workers scramble for the famous middle eastern dishes; from quick-fixes like the cheese, minced beef or chicken esfihas (R$3.50) to stuffed pumpkin, green peppers and aubergine, rich lentil rice and great big lumps of houmous (all R$22).

The esfihas are hard to beat, though, the little triangular parcels of atypically moist filling best eaten with a slug of fresh lemon juice and 'Arabian' sauce on top. Team it with one of the more unusual fruit juices from the North (ranging from atemoya to kiwi - R$5), or follow up with one of the better açaís in this part of town (R$5.50). Those after the real experience, however, can finish with a cup of the thick and creamy coalhada yoghurt, all taken standing up, of course - providing stools would be cheating.