They do a delicious acarajé here – a bean-paste patty in to which you stuff vatapá (shrimp paste), prawns, and lashings of chilli, which come conveniently mini-sized for sharing as a starter. For mains, try the Bahian moqueca – a spicy fish or prawn stew with coconut milk, enriched with a rainbow of tropical flavours.

The no-frills decor and pavement tables all give the place an authentically unrefined Bahian feel – as does the friendly service, which is as agonisingly slow as it is in Bahia. But the beer is cold and the food is hot, so relax and switch off that São Paulo stopwatch: for the next hour or so, you’re in Bahia.