The AK in the name is for the chef Andrea Kaufmann, who ran a Jewish restaurant before setting up AK Vila in 2011. Classic Central European dishes such as goulash are now just one part of a more eclectic menu (think Peruvian soup alongside Scottish smoked haddock), with the main focus being on seasonal ingredients and straightforward (though pricey) grills.

The stinco de cordeiro (R$72, braised lamb shank) we had was fall-apart tender, and both the pork ribs starter (R$36) and the roast chicken (R$41) were superbly cooked. Vegetables need to be ordered separately (three dishes should be enough for two) – make the smoky aubergine one of your choices.The long, thin space, with a wood-decked terrace at the front, has a striking, industrial-chic design with bare concrete walls, naked lightbulbs and faded grey leather upholstery.