This informal, lively bar is right on São Paulo’s bohemian frontline – on the bustling pavement of Praça Roosevelt, facing a concrete wasteland that’s currently populated by reckless skateboarders and a scattering of drunken homeless people, although it’s currently under renovation. The bar’s name means ‘chat, cachaça and snacks’. There’s a cut- out of Elvis surrounded by flashing lights outside, racks of old vinyl inside, and its big wooden tables are invariably full of loud chat, expansive gestures and oh, go on then, a saideira – the Brazilian version of 'one for the road'.