Straightforward and buzzing, this boteco is something of a city institution, doubling up as a bookshop and video rental joint, with shelves stacked with old VHS tapes, dust-covered books and erotic manga comics. Head here for the cheap buffet lunch, though in the evenings expect slow service and to wait at least an hour for a table. For more immediate gratification, squeeze through the groups of media and artsy types gathered outside and order a beer at the bar inside, where you get the sense that things can’t have changed much since it opened more than forty years ago.