The mischief-making, shape-shifting badger creature of legend graces both the name and symbol of this traditional Japanese joint. Chef Shigeru Hirano has done a bit of shape-shifting himself, opening Shigueru in Itaim Bibi recently and leaving Koje Yamasaki in charge of Tanuki. If you can navigate the somewhat inaccessible menu, you’ll find some real gems, such as a fish version of the more traditionally meaty fondue-style shabu-shabu – named after the sizzling sound as the food hits the hot oil (fish version R$155; meat version R$135; feeds two). It’s also a rare chance to try fugu, the poisonous puffer fish, but check availability: ‘It’s two weeks since it last came in.’ At the sushi bar, tuck into the Tanuki especial (R$110), a combination of 40 pieces of sushi and sashimi.