Smack bang on the busiest crossroads in Vila Madalena is this grand old dame of choperias, probably the best of the bars that crowd this buzzing corner. The walls are covered with caricatures of famous personalities and photos of the 1960s, and the name is a homage to the eponymous lifeguard post and associated hangout spot on Ipanema beach. Pair your drinks with some of the best fried mandioca (fried yucca) in town, and dream of Rio.