Tables crammed close together, patrons regularly colliding, and a cozy atmosphere: at Teta, one of the oldest jazz bars in Pinheiros, a casual and improvisational mood extends beyond the music. Whether at tables and couches in the anteroom, or next to the stage alongside a Schumann piano, the bar’s regulars make themselves very much at home, often drinking a homemade ‘Smirnoff ice’ – Smirnoff vodka, lemon juice, sugar and lemonade soda.

A good option is to avoid the weekend, and opt for a quieter night, like Wednesdays, which feature performances by the guitarist, violinist and composer Pollaco. But those looking for fun till dawn can simply wait for the early birds to file out – on Fridays and Saturdays, the curtains fall at 5am.

• Read about other São Paulo jazz bars