Epitomising the tumbledown shabby chic of Rua Alice is Desculpe, Eu Sou Chiquue, an Aladdin's Cave of all things antique, retro and vintage, with barely a square centimetre of wall or floor space not taken up with a hanging hat or a Goofy phone or a thousand beads. There is also a peculiar collection of softcore porn VHS tapes out the back, next to the kind of heavy, thick-lined coats that look like they have no place in Rio. In fact the whole store has more of the Portobello Road about it than Laranjeiras, but that's what makes it such a mind-bending find.