Amid the countless beer-and-crisps kiosks that still take up the majority of the Copacabana strip, finally a restaurant worthy of the location has set up stall, providing a bistrô-esque menu in the convivial beachside madness so unique to the neighbourhood. Located just by Posto 3 tower at the end of Rua Siqueira Campos, it is in the very middle of Rio's famous sweep of sand, providing great views back towards Sugarloaf as well as the less serene comings and goings of this part of town.

The cocktails make for a good starting point. Whether it be a mojito, daiquiri or even a cucumber martini that floats your boat, they are more authentic than most and all well priced (R$11). Couple one with the pasteis that are a cut above the norm thanks to a near-perfect home-made crust and fillings like chicken curry, bolognaise and the seafood trio of shrimp, squid and anchovy, and the French quality control is pleasingly ever-present.

This remains the case throughout a menu that includes a charcuterie plate (R$30) of salami, cured ham, ciabatta, olives and cucumber relish, delicately fried fish (R$21) that has the rare joy of not tasting of month-old cooking oil and a crepe and pizza selection that is reassuringly straightforward and all the more appealing for it. The milkshakes also deserve a mention, freshly whipped up with homemade ice cream and the coffee variety will make a fine post-dinner primer with a shot of whiskey thrown in for good measure.