A great option by day or night, the Largo das Letras should suit anybody who has just spent a few hours successfully negotiating the crazy paving, dogs and trams of Santa Teresa and thoroughly enjoyed themselves. By turns a bookshop and café in daylight transforming into a pizzaria and bar by night, the cover of the tree overhead keeps things from getting overheated while the comings and goings below should provide ample distraction for a few hours of brain-cleansing relaxation.