Along with its sibling Tasca do Edgar, Bar do Serafim, or Serafa as it is known to its legion of regulars, occupies the start of Rua Alice, the charming, bohemian street that winds its way from here up the hillside to Santa Teresa. The two of them have cult status in this part of town, and as the night draws in it isnt hard to see why; the place embodies street-side drinking at its very best with eccentric locals to match. 

By day at the weekend you will be hard pushed to secure a table such is the pulling power of the steak and feijoada within, as ever accompanied by as much cold chopp as the white-clad waiters can produce in a rush. Its a simple formula that the beloved owner Juca brought over from his native Portugal, and one that has become something of a trademark; moustachioed owners opening successful, simple bars in the style of those back home. The cachaça selection is also well worth a perusal.