Rio is full of charming settings but there are few that can beat that of Urca. At the tip of one of Rio's quieter neighbourhoods, Bar Urca is a two-storey affair overlooking a picturesque marina of bobbing boats. Or it would if there weren't a line of people leaning on the concrete balastrade drinking beers and fishing over the side. And that is what's best about the place - people cross the street in droves to grab incredibly cold beer and tasty bar snacks like the freshly-baked empadas (small pies) and pasteis (fried pockets with a variety of fillings like the excellent shrimp). Views of Niterói and downtown and a host of colourful regulars make it an ideal spot for an afternoon beer.

For those with more of a hunger, the slightly less enticing and rather smarter upstairs restaurant (open Mon-Sat 11.30am-11pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm) serves a popular Friday feijoada (R$50).