In a city not renowned for its love of the grape, the unlikely location of Rua Ipiranga on the edge of Laranjeiras simply adds to the mystique and inside the staff's approach to wine is far from snobbish or exclusive. Indeed, a huge table for up to 16 people in the centre of the room was the first furniture Hodara put in situ, with the idea of uniting even perfect strangers in conversation over and about their chosen bottles. The mesão, as it is known, also provides the centrepiece for the wine tasting sessions and courses regularly held here.

Smaller tables for two are dotted around for those after rather more privacy, and live music regularly accompanies the drinking courtesy of a grand piano and occasional jazz sessions. The menu offers perfect wine accompaniments like the patê and cheese platters, as well as a larger dishes like mushroom risotto and Saturday lunchtimes have a four-course set menu for R$69, all to be eaten slowly whilst mulling over the huge selection of bottles along the side of the room. Moreover, prices start at a very reasonable R$30 a bottle, but the sky is the limit for the more adventurous.