For a city so obsessed with beer, it is somewhat surprising that there aren't more micro-breweries cropping up, but Devassa is doing its best to fill the gap by opening new branches at a rapid rate since 2002. The original is a straightforward bar in the heart of Leblon (Avenida General San Martin 1241), which always has room to squeeze in a couple more drinkers at the end of the long wooden tables, as does the ample terrace in Ipanema's branch overlooking the lively Rua Farme de Amoedo. The beer menu offers a welcome change from perennial Brahma chopp too, including a decent pale ale and chopp escuro, a darker, sweeter alternative, even if the original micro-brewery ethos has been driven out in favour of mass production as the brand goes global. A comprehensive and reasonably-priced food menu, with decent burgers and steak, helps keep the legions of drinkers happy.