It’s set on a traffic-heavy corner of Faria Lima, but somehow the trees outside and the bright, pleasant atmosphere inside conspire to make Pirajá customers feel a million miles from the traffic jams and the long schlep home. Very far in fact, since it’s modeled on Rio’s classic botequims, and has a reputation for being the most carioca of all São Paulo bars. The lovely decor, all warm wood and neat white tiling, combined with the smart, prompt service make an evening here a pleasure – as does the excellent menu. Get there early to bag a spit-roasted chicken – franguinho na TV, named after the glass-fronted, TV-like oven – they sell out fast.