The casual grandeur of Astor, its bustling bow-tied waiters and the towering edifice of a bar brought from Philadelphia by sea give this fine establishment a vintage feel that belies its 2001 origins. But the crowd is mixed and modern, with plenty of jazzy youth to liven up the more mature patrons. The food is excellent too – try a portion of the mouth-watering feijão (bean, pork and garlic soup): it’s a national gastronomic icon. Downstairs is Sub Astor, a ritzy, decadent red-and-black bar serving some of the best cocktails in town.