Well away from the Vila Madalena hustle and bustle, L’Aperô is a great little spot for dinner under the stars. Sit outside at one of a scattering of tables, covered in red-and-white  checkered tablecloths, and peruse the menu, which you’ll find unceremoniously glued to the back of a wine bottle. The food is nothing to write home about, but the laid-back charm and modest prices make this an ideal neighbourhood bolt-hole. Our tip? Avoid the moules and go for one of the salads – served in large bowls with a satisfying ratio of lettuce to tasty bits, such as crispy sautéed potatoes or melted goats cheese on croutons.