The bread basket alone is worth the trip to Ettore - the contents covered with sea salt and rosemary and laden with cheese or ham. But don't fill up too early because the menu is also chock-full of Italian classics and new variations thereof, to be savoured in a serenely comfortable atmosphere. The six-strong mixed antepasti gets things started nicely, but it is the home-spun pastas that are a real hit, along with some hearty salads like the Buongustàio, with three types of mushroom cooked in white wine.