You can imagine Acrópoles landing a minor part in a Woody Allen movie, or a cameo role in Seinfeld as the quintessential family-owned neighbourhood joint. Today, the word is out that the food is good and paulistanos from all over town flock here, spilling onto the pavement outside and drinking draught beer as they wait patiently for a table to come free. In fact, weekends can get uncomfortably packed despite the outmoded downtown location.

The decor is beyond faded, with wonky photos of crumbling temples, and the veteran owners look like they might have had a hand in building the original Acrópolis. The steaming kitchen rolls out Greek classics such as moussaka and baked lamb, along with some nods to Italian classics. Nothing’s spectacular – but it’s good, solid, home-made stuff.