One more jewel in Rua Dias Fereira's ample culinary crown has just been unleashed by the team behind Sushi Leblon and Zuka; Ana Carolina Gayoso, Bia Stewart and Marina Hirsch's elegant Brigite's. In keeping with its illustrious siblings the design is clean and bright by day, more atmospheric and even a little Mediterranean by night, with a subtle bar-restaurant division making for a different eating or drinking experience depending on the mood, as is the case with that other nearby newcomer, Stuzzi.

The drinks menu is diverse and experimental. A long Star No Rio (R$23) combines grapes, star fruit, basil and vodka to tangy effect, though not quite to the lipsmacking extent of the Limões do Engenhão (R$23), coupling lemons and limes and calmed with raw brown sugar.

The menu is lean but varied, with lighter, healthier options than those found at Zuka and with a greater emphasis on organic produce; the bolinho de quinoa (R$24) with curry and chutney for example, and Gravlax (R$25) that would leave the hardiest Nordic in heaven. Main dishes are predictably pricey, but opting for the duck confit with manioc gratin (R$64) or langoustine with lime (R$89) will not lead to disappointment.

Vegetarians are well catered for at lunchtimes, with a vegetarian feijoada, spaghetti with mushrooms, beans and broccoli and even a bobó de shiitake (usually made from shrimp) to choose from (all R$30). Which should leave room for the classic apple crumble (R$18) or the ever-faithful brownie with white chocolate filling (R$18).