The brilliant chef who gives the establishment its name seems to collect awards for fun, but the praise is due to her bravery and lack of gimmickery or surplus ingredients. Fresh and simple are the bywords, so whatever arrives across the entire nine-course taster menu (R$240) will certainly be of the highest order and lovingly made.  Sommelier Jonathan Nossiter oversees an excellent wine selection as well as some unusual and flavoursome artesenel beers.