The São Paulo branch of this London dim sum chain is the latest in the global expansion of what has been a big success story to date. Their concept of ‘little steamed parcels of deliciousness’ – served in a contemporary environment, where diners crowd in cheek-by-jowl for a quick, tasty and not-too-pricey dinner has not been translated quite as successfully here in São Paulo, which seems to lack the buzzing atmosphere and novelty of squeezing onto tables with strangers.

The dim sum – steamed Chinese dumplings filled with such delights as scallop and shitake or prawn and coriander – are ordered by ticking from a list, and then delivered to the table in bamboo steamers.