This brilliant, homely little bar has been sitting there, diffidently charming on its nondescript block, for decades. Founded in 1923 as a grocer's shop by the current owner's grandfather, it's been a bar for the last 23 years, run by the eponymous Hugo along with his sister, wife and mother.

It's in stark contrast to the relentlessly upmarket restaurants and bars of Itaim, especially if there’s no room in the main bar or in the rustic yard and you have to sit in the back room with the beer crates, the fish tanks, and the deep freeze. It’s the Brazilian equivalent of an English country pub, except that the beer is cold, and the buracos quentes (minced meat and cheese-stuffed rolls) are excellent. Don’t dilly-dally on the way, because it closes early. Highly recommended.