You may be greeted and seated here by a portly moustachioed man with specs: that will be Señor Guatón. He’s from Chile, and has been running the front-of-house of this husband-and-wife neighbourhood restaurant for nearly 15 years. His wife, Dona Elba, keeps regulars happy with deliciously simple homemade Chilean food: ceviche (white fish with lime, onion and coriander), baked empanadas, and the comforting pastel de choclos – a chicken pie topped with a gratinated corn puree – are our favourites. Look out when Señor Guatón, with a twinkle in his eye, offers you one of his fiery homemade chilli oils.