Midcentury designer furniture in the lobby tips you off to the relaxed chic of this Jardins find. There’s a light-filled outdoor terrace and a long view over the kitchen, where the chefs seemed spookily calm the night we went. The cocktails are enjoyable, and prepare you for a slightly long wait. Very good food includes black pasta with seafood fidellini negro – with ‘the best prawns I’ve ever eaten’, as one of our party was moved to comment – and perfectly cooked robalo (snook), crispy on its bed of cashews and palm hearts. The chocolate dessert was a little dry, and could happily have been skipped.