There is a serious lack of decent Mexican food in São Paulo – no doubt because of the serious lack of Mexicans. Restaurateur Hugo Delgado solves both problems: he’s a living, breathing chilango from Mexico City and, though sometimes hampered by inaccessibility to certain ingredients, he does a fabulous job on the portion of Obá’s menu that’s dedicated to his homeland – the carnitas (braised pork tacos), refried beans, guacamole and margaritas.

The kitchen also sends out an array of Thai, Italian and Brazilian dishes to the convivial tables in this colourfully converted Jardins home; but though pretty much everything is good here, with such a gap in the city for truly good Mexican, it only leaves us wondering ¿por qué?