Candle-lit by moonlight, this ace little bar on the edge of Jardins doesn’t get going till the hairdressers’ next door winds down, and there's a very good reason for that: the sought-after tables are set out on the salon’s parking spaces. Huge caipirinhas and a buzzing atmosphere make this simple, friendly spot one of our absolute faves. Wait for a table if you have to, or give up and retire to Bar Balcão, close by – it's also Dida's hot tip for when rain spoils the fun at her place.