There is a subtle art deco-aesthetic at work in both branches of the ever-popular Bar do Juarez. Both get packed with older crowds drawn to the wide selection of whiskies and cachaças, and the table-top mini grill for juicy beef cuts always goes down a storm, even if it tends to fill the secondary salon at this, the original Moema branch, with a rather unsavoury smell. The excellent self-service, per-kilo spread of bar snacks blows most other bars right out of the water with its olives and cheeses, cold cuts and pickles; but avoid the nasty, watery caipirinhas with their thin-sliced lime.

Other locations: Avenida Deputado Franco de Lacerda 642, Pinheiros (3578 5228); Avenida Juscelino Kubitschek 1164, Itaim Bibi (3078 3458); and Rua Joaquim Nabuco 325, Brooklin (3969 4988)