The renowned caipirinhas at this friendly boteco live up to the hype, with weird and wonderful flavours mixed up by barman Souza and his crew. Go for the jabuticaba (a grape-like fruit), or the tangerine with chilli peppers, but give the bland romã (pomegranate) with lime a miss. There’s limited space inside, so expect to wait for a seat, or settle for standing-room on the pavement outside, next door to the extraordinary Sabesp water-tank building. The plump yet delicate bolinhos de bacalhau make the perfect accompaniment to the caipirinhas, as do the creamy coxinhas (chicken croquettes), which are so good you may even feel inclined to buy one of the bar’s ‘Soy Loko por Coxinha’ T-shirts. Hopefully not though.

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