There is an intriguing blend of obsessions at work at La Cucaracha, in the one street in Ipanema that, thanks to Galeria Café and Banzai Tattoo, is rather more interesting than most. Limited edition Nike trainers sit invitingly in the window and a stuffed rack of t-shirts begs to be sifted through, revealing everything from hemp leaf-covered bowling shirts to fresh and unique designs. A box of CDs is equally worth a flick through with local soundsystem DigitalDubs rubbing shoulders with DJ Kiros mixtapes (R$20).

The comic and book shelves hold a predictable source of herbal and trainer-related literature, but books like 'Disposable: A history of Skateboard Art' (R$145) and 'Art & Sole: Trainer Design' are not found in many other places in town. Nor are comic heroes Jason 2001 and Citizen Rex, and with the constant lure of limited edition new arrivals, posters and flyers to pour over, its worth making it part of the pre-or-post beach routine or a welcome respite from the predictability of the Hippie Fair.