Praça General Osório has had something of a chequered history, the most relevant part of which was during the ‘60s when hippies descended on the square to exhibit and sell their wares. Thus in no time the Hippie Fair was born, to which the weekly event of today resembles only in name - the standard knocked-off football shirts and drums abound, but there is also a corner of exquisite hardwood furniture and huge leather bean bags and rugs, or take respite from the crowds in the centre of the goings on where a diverse standard of art is displayed. Never pay the asking price – most of the time they will slash it just because you looked twice and from there the only way is down, but they will stop at what is considered a fair price and so should you.

The ubiquitous multi-coloured favela paintings are sold by the dozen, but more imaginative pieces can also be found, and there is a central credit-card facility for the more serious temptations. Food is also fairly well represented, with at least two of the four corners taken over by large Bahian ladies dressed in gleaming white pinnies hovering over huge pans of dende oil. A sure-fire way to destroy the bikini-bod, the acarajé is nonetheless a delight of deep-fried shrimpy hole-plugging.