The flagship store in Centro may be a little off the beaten track for some shoppers, but its roomy interior, coupled with the sense of tradition it infuses into the products, makes it well worth a visit over and above its siblings in Leblon (Rua General Artigas 470a, 3231-6759), Lapa (Rua do Lavradio 32, 2224 8640) and São Conrado's Fashion Mall. First opened in 1870 by Portuguese businessman José Antônio Coxito Granado, the extracts from plants and flowers grown on his own farm in Teresópolis formed the basis of the medicines on sale, coupled with rarer ingredients imported from Europe. The royal seal of approval soon followed, and three generations later englishman Christopher Freeman has assumed control and brought Granado and the classic soap brand, Phebo, together.

Ever-helpful staff enthusiastically point out the latest offers and newest lines, and fortunately there are a few bargains to be had in amongst the pricey candles and shampoos. Packs of three soaps are R$9 and come in quintessentially Brazilian scents like Açai and Castanha do Pará (Brazil nut), as do the body butters, deoderants, conditioners and bath oils.