Walking through the little arch on the northwest side of downtown Praça XV is like stepping back in time, the cobbled street Travessa do Comércio taking you on a winding path past bars and restaurants located in beautifully preserved eighteenth-century buildings. Taking its name from the Teles de Menezes family, owners of the buildings that flank the square, the area between the arch and Avenida Presidente Vargas is a glorious stroll taking in museums, cafés, pé sujo bars and bookshops. Whether its mid-morning tea, a rowdy post-work happy hour at Dito e Feito, a refined dinner at Cais do Oriente, or a dose of culture at the Centro Cultural dos Correios, the three-block area is unquestionably worthy of the attentions of anyone keen to step off the city's well-trodden path.