Following a revamp in 2012, the fortunes of Le French Bazar are on the up, especially at lunchtime, when the people of Pinheiros seem willing and able to spend more than an hour on a three-course set lunch.

Dinner times, with its cosy, candlelit setting, are quieter and largely comprised of couples, packed in close – a little too close: on our last visit, we could follow every word of an awkward first date three tables down. Not that we were listening. Much.

Team one of the classic bistro options – we enjoyed a tender entrecotê and a deliciously seasoned steak tartare, both served with salad and crispy fries – with a French pear cider or one of the interesting wines. Extra points are due for serving all wines on the menu by the glass.

Plus you won’t find any of the ubiquitous Argentinian or Chilean suspects: alongside a respectable choice of French wines is a curious assortment from countries that include Slovenia, Greece, Hungary, Israel and Morocco. On balmy nights, solo diners should opt for one of the tall stools set at the bar out on the street, watching the world go by.