Known universally as ‘that little place on Pedroso’, it takes only 20 bottoms to fill all the seats at this cosy, informal Pinheiros spot. There are no pratos quentes (hot dishes) here – chef Ryoichi Yoshida serves only sushi and sashimi, and has earned a solid reputation for his careful selection of ingredients, as well as the personal attention he gives to each customer.

Watch in awe as the Japanese veteran plys his trade with precision behind the counter, all while keeping up a good-humoured banter. The tasting menu, while not cheap (R$140), is a good value, and the variety, always seasonal, is impressive. The vieira (scallop) sushi (R$26 per pair) is sensational. The sushi de lula com folha de shiso (squid sushi with shiso leaf, R$14 per pair) and ovas de ouriço (sea urchin roe, R$14 per pair) are well worth a try, too. Yoshida’s personal favourite is the peixe-serra (R$14 per pair) – cold swordfish that’s been very lightly seared for a few seconds, sealing in a powerful flavour. 

• Read more on São Paulo's best sushi spots