Well-heeled families wait patiently for tables on Sunday evenings at this popular yet relaxed spot, taking the edge off their hunger with bread stuffed with oozing buffalo cream cheese and zingy calabresa. The restaurant is buzzing most other nights too, though getting a table doesn’t pose such a problem. Three tables outside offer an alfresco option, though most of the action is inside, where you can see the pizzas sliding in and out of a huge brick oven.

The traditional pizza bases are ciabatta-esque – thick and doughy – or there’s a thin crust option too. Give the Brigitte a whirl if you’re feeling daring and you’ll discover what we did: that Brie, asparagus and honey is a surprisingly good combo. Committed carnivores should go for an Obelix, whose wild-boar sausage will satisfy any self-respecting Gaul.