Proudly serving some of the tenderest, freshest fish in town, the thoroughly authentic Nagayama isn’t cheap; but it’s a pure delight, from the cosy, comfortable space and the welcoming service to the virtuoso sushi and sashimi. The delicious sushi and sashimi set for two (R$124) is easily enough for three; and try, too, the exquisite baterá – it’s a pressed rice disc jewelled with chives and dotted with tiny crunches of salmon roe, topped with even crunchier tempura (R$16 for two).

For sushi with a more laid-back vibe next-door Nagayama Café (Rua Bandeira Paulista 355) is always packed with a young, well-heeled crowd while on the other side, Naga (Rua Bandeira Paulista 381), the newest of the trio, goes big on the style stakes with low lighting and a contemporary vibe.