Great food and music are the soul of this Moema boteco, where owner Batista describes the clientele as ‘friends not customers’. The original owners were the estranged parents of MPB queen Elis Regina. She never set foot in the bar but today, many musicians still while away the afternoons here. ‘Our food is nothing elaborate but it’s well made’ says the owner. And we can testify to that. Don’t miss the prawn pastéis and bolinhos de bacalhau (fried cod balls).