The best time to get down and dirty at Sujinho is in the small hours of the morning before it shuts at 5am, when you’ll find meat-hungry punters tucking in to big hunks of picanha and espeto misto (mixed grilled meats). This traditional bisteca is still known to many old-school paulistanos as ‘Bar das Putas’ (the whore’s bar) for its clientele, who would come to relax after work back in the ’70s and ’80s, when Consolação was a place to pick up prostitutes. Sujinho has these days smartened up its image considerably. This, the original restaurant – there are now three of them, plus a hamburger joint – has a roof terrace on the third floor, where by day you can watch the hubbub of Rua da Consolação below and graze on free torresmo (pork scratchings) and caldinho de feijão (bean soup) whilst you wait for a table.