Dedicated to doing it the old fashioned way, former businessman Aldo de Rosa’s downtown establishment is all about filter coffee. With Brazil’s growing taste for espresso, de Rosa opened this no-frills café as a place in which to preserve the traditional filter coffee method. His sister-in-law Rossana Loureiro is in charge of the brewing – she only makes two litres of coffee at a time. With each new batch, she rings a brass bell to let passersby know that the fresh coffee is served. Satisfy a sweet tooth with one of Loureiro’s cakes, like the endearingly named engorda marido (R$3.80) – husband fattener – a heavy cake made with milk.