Its fame and history may have been the only things keeping Portela samba school in the Carnival parade's top flight for the past two decades, but that doesn't detract in any way from the passion and energy of their weekly Friday rehearsals out in Madureira. Rather off the beaten track for a lot of visitors, those that so make the journey by overland train or taxi (approx R$60 from Ipanema) will get a true flavour of exactly how much Rio Carnival means to the neighbourhood.

• Read our full guide to Rio Carnival 2013